Osor – Brestova via Mali Lošinj

112.6km

I would be perfectly happy if Lidl continued to take over the world, especially if their bakery section continues to suit the needs of hungry cycle tourists.

I think I did a 50km out-and-back today just to go to Lidl… I guess it wasn’t the intended reason for the trip but it was possibly the highlight. What a fantastic second (and third) breakfast.

I had the excitement of what is probably my last ferry and bridge crossings for Croatia. A turntable thing trapping me in Mali Lošinj (good place to be stuck as long as lidl has a good stock room) and I took my ninth Jadrolinija – I definitely should have got a season ticket.

Cres was a lot more charming today when I could actually see the views! I was having such a great time I got carried away and tired myself out.

That might look like a charming seaside town but it’s actually at the top of a 400m cliff. Bloody hills.

The terrain was similar on return to the mainland. Whoever designed it clearly didn’t have wild camper in mind. A tired and grumpy Meg did not appreciate having to go up a big hill out of the sea with no ability to slip off into the bushes due to the shear drops.

I seem to have developed an ability to mar beautiful days by tiring myself out. If I was wise I would learn from these experiences.

Baška – Osor

80km

Today was a day when my inner bipolar demons showed their true colours.

I was soaked to the skin within 10minutes of setting off. I could have predicted it but it still made me despair, and nearly brought me to tears. Nearly.

I was glad to see the back of Otok (island) Krk if I’m honest. That amount of hills, rain and cold is enough to put anyone off.

I have Jadrolinja to thank for some chance encounters that kicked me into positivity.

I had 6 Italian men gathered around Olive talking about her and pointing at things. The only input they required from me was to confirm it was my bike, I didn’t speak italian and because I was English I should be used to the rain. It was hilarious.

Then I had my first conversation with Slovenians. A lovely couple chatted to me for the whole crossing to Otok Cres about cycling in Croatia and places to go in Slovenia… and also invited me for lunch if I happen to be passing their house! I must say, I like Slovenia already, and I’m not even there yet!

I had my first hot chocolate of the trip (desperate times call for desperate measures) and managed to stave off hypothermia. I almost smiled at one point…

Three things have been highlighted by today:

• People are awesome – in case I needed reminding. Case in point: the campsite lady with whom I bonded with over her recent trip to England where she came back with a tan (What are you doing croatian weather gods?)
• They really need to start selling hot chocolate sachets in European supermarkets
• It is possible to be soaked to the skin on a bike all day and still survive to tell the tale

Pag – Bunica

76km

The weather forecasts I’ve found for Croatia have been incredibly inaccurate. Maybe it’s the proximity of sea and mountains.

I did have the sense all of today that a storm was brewing. The sea was as flat as a pancake – I never knew the sea could be so still.

Maybe we have inbuilt barometers? You know that feeling you get when it’s about to rain – is that us being barometers? Maybe I’m just sixth sense hallucinating after how hot it’s been.

After criticising the D8 (main road by the coast) a few days ago clearly it’s taken my advice on board and become super awesome. Pretty quiet, relatively flat considering the mountains trying to pop out of the sea and stunning views.

One thing that has been a bit naff in Croatia is my map. It gave up on being one piece of paper today, deciding to spontaneously rip in half. Good job I was basically on one road all day because this was the most useful road sign I found…

Zadar – Pag

100.7km

One of the many things I appreciated about having Kate for company was that she never shied away from an early start. I took full advantage of the early start to maximise morning mileage.

After almost shedding tears – this trip has made me very emotionally labile – I focussed on settling back into talking to Olive.

Olive and I had a wonderful day out in the sun. It was the first (and probably last) time I’ve appreciated a headwind. It was so hot I nearly evaporated when I stopped.

We briefly bumped into Mr Eurovelo 8 again, after having not seen him since France. In typical bike path style he disappeared into nothingness without any notice.

I decides to do some more island hopping and was pleasantly surprised when this one, Pag, was connected to the mainland and didn’t require a ferry at one end. It was a very different topography. It’s almost desert like but surrounded by ocean at the same time. Bizarre.

After find my best yet wild camp I spent my evening in the company of hundreds of swallows, a couple of sheep and thousands of ants that I literally had to battle with to eat my food. They’re extremely persistent, especially when it comes to pudding. But don’t worry I don’t forego pudding without a fight.

22nd Lozovac – Popoviči 62.3km

23rd Popoviči – Zadar 82.5km

I’m not sure how I feel about Krka national park. You have to pay to enter and then walk around a prescribed route to coo at the waterfalls. Don’t get me wrong, they were beautiful, I think I’ve just developed a new level of independence where I don’t like to be hearded around for organised fun.

What we were really looking forward to was the swimming area. Turns out swimming is banned until June, which is maybe a good job given Kate’s reaction to dipping her toes in…

I honestly think if I had a friend to cycle with I could do this forever. Cycling is such a peaceful existence, gliding through the countryside, making friends with (Or being laughed at by) strangers. It makes it a joy to be alive.

It’s made all the more exciting when you spend 95% of your time outside that when you do find shelter you can watch with glee as the heavens open, lightening flashes and thunder crashes all around you but you’re dry. Maybe I shouldn’t be too scathing to Krka national park – they have very strategically placed coffee shops for thunder dodging.

Yesterday afternoon and this morning were a dream, on the back roads in the foothills, barely a car in sight, panoramic views and enough wildlife to satisfy Kate’s excitement (who knew there were tortoises in Croatia?). Found an absolutely awesome wild camp spot, too.

Kate has impressed me with her enthusiasm, appreciation of the basics (“that was a bloody good tomato”) and ability to rough it. I’m sad that she’s leaving but Croatia has treated us well. The people are so welcoming they never fail to surprise, hopefully the remainder of my time here will be filled with the same joy.

Lambarda – Vena Luka – Split

83km & ferry & 10km

Guess who we bumped into on Korčula, again? Team trek! I’m not surprised this island seems to be the cycle touring hotspot – it’s stunning!

Rapha (yes that’s his real name, cycling fans) joined us for a morning spin on his day off. When your day job is cycling it takes a special kind of person to cycle on your holidays!

After the next stage of the derailleur saga, Kate is now front derailleur-less all together.

We got a wee road recommendation from a local.

“Do you avoid the hills?” He asks.

“No, we don’t mind!” I naïvely replied.

What ensued was probably the steepest hill of the trip. It even destroyed Kate! We, somewhat satisfyingly, leapfrogged e-bikes all the way up and despite a coffee stop beat them down the other side.

I can’t work out what was the highlight of today – the dark chocolate ice cream, an octopus in the wild or Kate’s delirious excitement at the ferry journey.

Slano – Korčula

90ish km

You know it’s going to be a good day when you pack up a dry tent (a rare novelty), the rain predicted doesn’t materialise, there’s a tailwind and you’re in shorts and t-shirt posing on the Adriatic Sea at 8am.

Being stuck in one gear didn’t stop Kate at all. What I thought would be a climbing buddy was actually me being left for dust as she flew up the hills. I’ll blame Olive for being so heavy.

Olive and I did some of the same road we’d done a few days ago, starting to feel like a local… apart from the fact I’m coming up against a wall trying to learn this language!

The derailleur saga continues – hopefully I’ll have news on that tomorrow. But suffice to say what I’ve learnt from this trip is humans are awesome.